Saturday, March 21, 2015

Top !! Are 9: 24 November 11 and there are at CIM, to the highest mountains on earth and now and no


Our colleague and Poli "our guide capsalera" David Hill are enjoying a plateau in the mountains of the Himalayas. During most aim to make two main peaks of 6.000m (6.476m of the Mera Peak, among them) and some five thousand more to go acclimating themselves.
I write from the entrance to the national park of Mera Peak. We have been three days acclimating. pellini top Last night we slept at 4.300m, pellini top x had already risen to this level a couple of times before. He noticed the acclimatization process, my head quite badly !!!!
We are among a total of 20 people, porters, cooks, and Shida Sherpa climber. Bring about 40/50 kg each. Xo believe pellini top that valleys can carry up to 100kg, as per kilo charge.
We're approaching the first objective. Today we have reached Kothe, a village located approximately 4.800m. In my case the headache is almost constant but bearable, so far we're doing.
Tomorrow we reach the base camp of Mera Peak 5.400m. From there try to make the attack pellini top the summit. The idea is to go to 3 o'clock in the morning and head to the summit 10am. The weather is good, and also the snow conditions, so we are optimistic, but we know how things are in the mountains, everything can change pellini top in a short time so as always, we will be cautious.
Continues cold but the height is not excessive holding the go. Yesterday when we first acclimating to go high peak (5.026m) the cold was a little intense, but as I said, it can hold up well.
The shower theme remains difficult, if not nil. We invention but with some damn cold, showers, to tell you somehow are more than fast. But as we all do the same oloreta therefore not noticed, hehehe pellini top ... The mountains are huge. The south face of Mera will have about 2,500 basic and almost 3000m high. Spectacular. The next day I try to send a picture.
Last November 17th we made our second goal, Island Peak 6.189m, although slightly lower than the Mere of rather technical difficulty. Island Peak climb to reach the summit of Island Peak Summit of the Island, with Baruntse behind
After days of acclimatization on the headache has not stopped going and where we slowly gain altitude up to 5400m Mera Base Camp are the 2 am in the house and we are making the "kitchen" of Sherpas. The night has sat bad and do not feel like eating, kerosene gives me vomit, so today the esmorzaré plated honey every day.
After 4h climb my feet do not improve, try to move the base to improve it a bit, I got left foot like a stone. When I return to set foot in the boot blood passes slowly.
Q m'encordi David decides to go faster because Jalou and he stays with Lis. After a while, I tell about 6.100m Jalou that I can, but I see that David is near and that will give me confidence to go up.
I mark breathing, footsteps, think positive, we come there ... and in less than 1 h are the base peak dl. We have to climb with ice ax, the only time we use throughout pellini top the climb.
Top !! Are 9: 24 November 11 and there are at CIM, to the highest mountains on earth and now and not q ... beautiful words, reboniques nothing ... we were speechless, enjoying the special Now, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Cho Oyu summit covered ... But what strikes me is the Makalu West pillar, which line up and up ... simply spectacular.
Every morning at 7 am Coussan occasional cook and brother (who does not remember the name and I asked li'l pellini top more shame), we wake up with a "Good morning Sir" jajajaja me the PIXO Laughter is our alarm, so every morning to wake up with a smile from ear to ear.
That seemed to be the most spectacular journey, but one day we had to cross the passage of Amphu Collapse pellini top La, a pass over 5.800m height to which atacĂ vem for its south side. All were uncertainties in the north as it had very little risk of avalanches and we knew it. Well, the hill has exceeded all our expectations. Sherpas path neck Amphu Collapse
We started the day with Coussan and colleague at 5 in the morning, we go to be a glacier pellini top south side terraces are already huge seracs, that require attention, it happens. The doors going terraces sheracs
After 2 hours of climbing terrain I have ever walked by a 50m blade to the top. On a hill from there we see a little pellini top further pellini top down is our team of Sherpas who have climbed with the help of fixed ropes installed

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